Tips From A Cosmetic Formulator - Anna Doxie

August 04, 2017

Today’s society is turning in an au naturel direction. It’s part of the reason natural DIYs are on the rise, and why we are so DIY-crazy here at EG. Providing safer, more healthful options for people is what we’re passionate about and other DIYers are too.

However, good intentions have not prevented misconceptions from entering into the DIY world, and formulators are speaking out about it. We recently spoke with cosmetic formulator and registered aromatherapist, Anna Doxie on the subject of DIYs and creating better body products from home. Here are edited excerpts of our conversation with her.

What is your stance on preservatives?

 In a product that contains water, a preservative must be used. It isn’t necessarily part of a pattern of belief, but ethical protection of your end users. In an anhydrous product [a product that is oil based, and does not contain water], an anti-oxidant must be used to protect the shelf life. The presence of contamination is a larger danger than any of the preservatives themselves.

Is there a way to avoid the use of preservatives?

If you're making products for personal use only, then just know that they should be made in very small batches and will have a very short shelf life. If you're giving it away, put an approximate expiration date on it. If you’re selling it and you don't want to set yourself up for failure or put yourself in a liable situation, preservatives are not optional. 

Why is proper solubilization important when making water based products with essential oils?

A solubilizer [such as Polysorbate 20] evenly distributes the essential oils throughout the product making sure that the essential oils dissolve properly into the water. This helps to avoid a negative skin reaction, such as irritation or sensitization. Solubilizing is easy and effective.

Are there any common misconceptions you’ve noticed in DIYs?

The misconceptions in DIYers are significant and probably too numerous to name. Some common ones are:

  • My products are “chemical free.” All matter is a chemical. While they really have a message behind that “market speak”, it is still inaccurate to say. It generally stems from a naturalistic fallacy, or the assumption that everything natural is safer and that plants are not chemicals. It is more accurate to either define what you mean as “natural” (perhaps plant based and naturally occurring minerals minimally processed) and then to infer to your clients that you strive to make “safer” products.
  • Vitamin E is a preservative.
  • I can use an oil with a calculated SPF as a sunscreen.

What are your thoughts on the DIY movement? It seems that many formulators these days have mixed feelings about the DIY movement, due to incorrect or dangerous formulations. Do you agree or oppose this idea.

Most formulators look down on DIYers who make their products out of a fear of chemicals and do not use credible sources of educational materials to evolve. As a formulator who works with many startups, I can weigh-in and say that almost universally I see the clients who do not evolve or who cling to fear based marketing either fail or plateau out quickly.

This does not mean that they cannot stay in harmony with their initial altruistic plan to make safe products. They can look at the natural standards and rather than treating “natural” as an undefined term subject to interpretation, they can define it.

Lastly, if you use honest and credible marketing and a defined standard, you can still make safe products while also being effective and affordable. There is nothing wrong with this approach if you are honest with the limitations of what a DIY product can accomplish, the product’s shelf life and are aware of the risks of being a DIYer, it’s perfectly fine. 

What is your advice to people seeking to make their own body products at home? 

Educate yourself! Blogs are a great introduction to get you going and making personal products. But if you seek to ever start a business, get professional training, otherwise, you are setting yourself and your business up for failure and risk of liability. Grow your knowledge, grow your business!

COMMENTS

These comments were contributed by customers without influence from Edens Garden. The opinions expressed in these comments are 100% the authors' own and do not reflect the views or opinions of Edens Garden.

  • Kimberleigh says...

    Second about the natural preservative options. And Zack, why not look in to becoming a Naturopathic Doctor (N.D.)? They study and use many different, more holistic and natural options to treat their patients! :)

    On August 14, 2017

  • cyndita0414 says...

    Thank you for the informative post! I love essential oils, but it’s important to remember that just because something is natural, it doesn’t mean that it’s safe. I would also be interested in learning more about DIY recipes with ingredients that work as antioxidants or preservatives, etc.

    On August 13, 2017

  • Edens Garden says...

    Hi Zack! If you don’t go in the direction of nursing, organic chemistry is becoming a very lucrative field of study ;) If by natural, you mean plant-based, the only natural preservative is grain alcohol. However, you should consider that alcohol isn’t always the best to use in body products, as it is drying. You can find tons of info on preservatives here: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/p/preservatives.html

    On August 07, 2017

  • Edens Garden says...

    Hi Sandy Hiatt! Antioxidants and preservatives are two different things. Antioxidants slow the rancidity of oils and butters. Preservatives extend the shelf life of water based products. An example of an antioxidant is Vitamin E, and an example of a preservative is grain alcohol (190 proof).

    On August 07, 2017

  • Zack Kovac says...

    First off great blog post! I totally agree that you always should be care full the sources that you get your information and be careful. (especially Pinterest!) I feel a lot of people are just posting to get money and not really adding any research especially getting it from Pinterest or wherever. For example, saying that carrot seed oil and raspberry seed oil have SPF. Or even saying that drinking strawberry lemon water will “detox” you. ( all it is is fiber that at first helps you lose water weight)The side note I am High schooler and love essential oil chemistry and cosmetic chemistry and considering doing it as a profession but, my parents are pushing me to be a nurse. Which I don’t know how I feel about because I have a more “natural look on medicine” Also I had some questions, Is there such thing as a natural preservative? Could essential oils be used as a preservative? for example oregano oil? What are some preservatives DIYers can use? Thank You!

    On August 05, 2017

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