DIY | Essential Oil Cleansing Balm & The Benefits Of Double Cleansing
What Is Double Cleansing?
With its origin dating back to the 14th century in Asian countries of Japan and Korea, double cleansing was used to benefit healthy skin and aid removal of the heavy white paint-like makeup that was traditionally worn by women(1,2,3). Fast forward to the modern day, this process of cleansing continues to assist in balancing facial sebum production and makes it easier to remove residue from makeup, sunscreen and pollutants without drying out the skin.
Double cleansing of the face began gaining traction in the United States within the past five years following the trend of Korean beauty skin care routines. It is said to bring on a healthy glow and has the potential to balance sebum and oil production on the face(4). This cleansing process has two phases. The first uses an oil-based cleanser to assist in removing waterproof makeup, sunscreen, dead skin cells and any accumulated environmental pollutants without stripping the face of its natural oils. The second step involves applying a water-based cleanser to remove any excess oil from the skin.
Skin Types or Candidates for This Method
Double Cleansing is suitable for all skin types, especially those wearing waterproof makeup and sunscreen daily. However, attention should be paid to using a water-based cleanser that is best suited for each skin type. (For cleansing carrier oils, please continue reading further in the blog.)
- Oily skin: For those with oily skin, you want to de-grease the face without stripping the skin completely of its natural oils. Think clay-based foaming cleanser or gel facial wash.
- Dry skin: Mild cleansers that have a milky, creamy form are generally best.
- Combination skin: Either a gel cleanser or a milky cleanser is advised for those with combo skin.
- Sensitive skin: Target cleansers that are free of artificial colors and artificial fragrances. Cleansers that have anti-inflammatory ingredients and soothing properties are best and a very low dilution of specific therapeutic essential oils can be added to help calm irritated skin.
Benefits of Double Cleansing
The goals and benefits of double cleansing(5) are to restore vitality to your skin with a brighter more luminous glow as well as to remove impurities, clear away excess sebum and makeup, purify clogged pores, exfoliate dead skin cells and pollutants at the end of the day to leave you with resilient, glowing skin.
The best carrier oils for double cleansing are gentle and effective and won't strip the skin of its natural oils. Below is a chart that lays out the best carrier oils for your skin type. Whether you want to use a single carrier oil or blend carrier oils for this stage is up to you. Be sure to always test new products on the inner arm and wait 24 hours before using them on a larger area to rule out skin sensitivities. It may take a little trial and error to find the oil you love best. Here are our favorites according to skin type:
- Oily Skin: Focus on lightweight, non-greasy natural oil products that will be gentle without adding too much heaviness or clogging pores. Our picks are Camellia Seed Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Jojoba Oil, Prickly Pear Seed Oil, Raspberry Seed Oil and Sunflower Seed Oil.
- Normal and Combo Skin: Normal and combo skin gets the best of both worlds and can use any of the oils listed for oily, normal and dry skin types. Here are our favorites for normal and combo skin: Argan Oil, Jojoba Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Sunflower Seed Oil, Meadowfoam Oil and Rosehip Oil.
- Dry & Sensitive Skin: Like oily skin, you want a carrier oil that won't clog pores but can keep the skin hydrated without stripping away any natural oils. Remember to lock in hydration after washing with soap while the skin is still moist. Carrier oils for dry and sensitive skin include Argan oil, Avocado oil, Cucumber Seed oil, Hemp Seed Oil, Meadowfoam Oil, Moringa Oil, Oat Oil, Rosehip oil, Pomegranate Seed oil and Raspberry Seed Oil.
Adding Essential Oils
If you desire to go a step further to add some essential oils to your carrier oil, water-based cleanser or post-cleansing hydrating cream, there are some spectacular essential oils for all skin types to reduce inflammation and redness, fight bacteria that cause acne and even add hydration to bring a warm glow to the skin.
Adding essential oils to these products is easy. Keep in mind the correct dilution for the face (1-2% maximum) and blend according to skin type. It is always best to start with unscented products when adding essential oils. As with carrier oils, when using new essential oils, always test them on the inner arm and wait 24 hours. If there is no skin reaction, you are good to go.
Essential oils for rejuvenating and age-defying blends include Carrot Seed, Frankincense and Lavender. Some other appropriate facial essential oils include:
- For oily skin: Try astringent oils that can help control sebum production on the face such as Cypress, Clary Sage, Geranium-Rose, Juniper Berry, Lemon* and Cedarwood.
- For normal skin: Carrot Seed, Frankincense, Lavender, Myrrh, Orange- Sweet
- For dry skin: incorporate hydrating essential oils such as Lavender, Neroli, Patchouli, Rose-Bulgarian and Sandalwood as well as oils that can help balance skin tone such as Geranium- Rose.
- For those with acne: Consider adding anti-bacterial essential oils such as Rosemary, Lavender and Tea Tree essential oils.
How to Double Cleanse
Follow these simple steps to effectively double cleanse the face:
- Wash hands thoroughly
- Place a quarter-sized amount of oil in the palm of your hand and warm the oil cleanser by rubbing your hands together. Begin to massage the oil gently in small circles with the fingertips around the face for about a minute and up to a few minutes for a deeper cleanse all the while paying attention to congested areas such as around the nose.
- Using a soft washcloth moistened with lukewarm water, gently wipe the oil away.
- Your skin should now be very smooth and ready for the second cleansing.
- While the skin is damp, rub the cleanser between your hands and gently work and massage it into the skin focusing on congested areas of the nose to remove residual oil and any sweat, grime and environmental pollutants that have accumulated throughout the day.
- Wash the cleanser off with lukewarm water and gently pat with a dry cloth leaving some moisture on the face.
- Massage in your favorite hydrating cream while the skin is still damp.
DIY Cleansing Balm Recipe
Edens Garden is always looking for new ways to offer wellness to its customers and when it comes to skin health, we have you covered. We love passing on DIY projects such as this Essential Oil Cleansing Balm.
Many ingredients have a lot of skin-loving potential when making a DIY cleansing balm so let's break them down:
- Shea Butter: This rich, earthy and nutty butter is packed with vitamin E and melts easily against warm skin. With a comedogenic rating of zero, it won’t clog pores meaning it’s perfect for all skin types.
- Cocoa Butter: According to Healthline(6), cocoa butter may protect skin from aging and UV rays and is rich in phytochemicals. It is indicated especially for those with dry and sensitive skin to repair its natural barrier.
- Carrier Oils: Jojoba oil is considered a universal carrier oil for all skin types due to its ability to match our skin's sebum(7). For other carrier oils that have beneficial properties consult the chart above according to skin type or read all about them on Edens Garden website.
- Vitamin E Oil: As an antioxidant, Vitamin E may act as a natural topical anti-inflammatory. It is used in products to extend its shelf life as a preservative(8).
- Essential Oils: Packed with anti-inflammatory, hydrating and cooling properties the chart above will help you focus on 1-3 essential oils for your skin type. You can also read this blog about essential oils for uneven skin tone
- Bentonite Clay: It has been shown to increase blood circulation and may promote a brighter complexion. In studies, it may help control oiliness without excessively drying out the skin. It is best for those with oily or acne-prone skin to absorb excess sebum and may be used almost every day. However, for those with dry skin, it is best used at a minimum or avoided completely.
- Baking Soda: Sometimes used in a cleansing balm and skin products for its exfoliant factor, if used as a standalone product on the face, it can be especially drying and not suggested for those with dry or sensitive skin.
All Skin Types DIY Cleansing Balm
1 oz (approx 2 T) Shea Butter
1 oz (approx 2 T) Cocoa Butter or about 4 discs
½ oz (approx 1 T) Jojoba oil*
½ oz (approx 1T) Argan oil*
3-4 drops of Vitamin E
4 drops of Carrot Seed essential oil
4 drops of Lavender essential oil
4 drops of Frankincense- Carterii essential oil
*Feel free to substitute Jojoba and Argan oils for carrier oils of your choice
- Place Shea Butter and Cocoa Butter in a double boiler over medium heat and melt.
- Remove from the heat and whisk in the Jojoba and Argan oils.
- Let cool slightly and then add the Vitamin E and the essential oils.
- Pour the balm into a 4 oz glass jar and place it in the refrigerator to cure and set - preferably overnight.
When ready to cleanse at night, gently massage a nickel-sized amount into your skin to remove makeup and dirt focusing on congested areas. Remove the balm with a warm, moist washcloth. Follow with your facial cleanser or one of the DIY recipes below. This product can be kept in the refrigerator to prolong its shelf life.
DIY Foaming Facial Cleanser
1 oz mild unscented Liquid Castile Soap
1 oz Tea Tree or Lavender Hydrosol or Distilled Water*
3 drops of Tea Tree essential oil
4 drops of Lavender essential oil
3 drops of Myrrh essential oil
*For those with oily skin substitute Witch Hazel in place of Water or Hydrosol
- Blend Castile Soap and essential oils
- Add in the Hydrosol, Distilled Water or Witch Hazel in a 2 oz amber glass bottle.
- Shake gently.
Dry And Sensitive Skin Facial Cleanser
¾ oz (approx 1.5 T) Castile Soap
½ oz (1 T) Aloe Vera Gel
4 drops Sandalwood
1 drop Neroli
2 drop Rose- Bulgarian
- Blend Castile Soap and carrier oil in a 2 oz amber glass bottle.
- Add the Aloe Vera Gel and essential oils.
- Shake gently.
- What is Double Cleansing? https://www.vogue.com/article/double-cleansing-method
- The Ancient Art of Double Cleansing https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/beauty/the-ancient-asian-art-of-double-cleansing-20160728-gqfuoe.html
- Double Cleansing 101: A Quick Guide https://manyo.us/blogs/lifestyle-routines/double-cleansing-101-a-quick-guide
- Double Cleansing Method Explained. Should You Try It? https://health.clevelandclinic.org/double-cleansing-explained
- Everything You Need to Know About the Oil Cleansing Method https://www.healthline.com/health/oil-cleansing-method
- Cocoa Butter for Face: Skin Health and Scars https://www.healthline.com/health/cocoa-butter-for-face
- Jojoba Oil: Uses, Benefits and Side Effects https://www.forbes.com/health/supplements/jojoba-oil/
- Ten Benefits of Vitamin E Oil https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/318168